Sunday, January 29, 2006

Suzhou, launch the surprises

Lonely Planet: If you want to see the most beautiful gardens of China and the most gorgeous women of China, take a trip to Suzhou.

The train is crowded as usual; remember we are in the middle of the most important Chinese holiday. We were seated with 4 other travelers; everyone was busy glancing through magazines or playing cards - Chinese love to spend time playing games: cards, Chinese chess, mahjong, dice etc. – as Julien and I were brainfucking. He was trying to solve his new Chinese brain twister and I stayed more traditional, solving Sudoku puzzles of my Black Belt Sudoku book. The kid next to me was quite amazed by me using my left hand to place senseless numbers in a senseless grid. Niu rou mi fan (let’s say this was his name, actually it means “rice with beef”, but I can’t remember his name so keep on track) started questioning me in Chinese about who I was, what I was doing and so on. I ended up trying to explain the principles of Sudoku to my little buddy, but failed under the pressure of people around laughing at me speaking Chinese (as usual, may I add). We changed the subject and started Julien's favorite game: guessing Chinese characters in a newspaper. People around laughed again.. Hell with it buddy, why don’t you try to read the English foreword of my Sudoku book? Oh can’t you guess more than 5 words? ..Hmm alright (hehehe).

We arrive to Suzhou around 10pm, it seems like there are no public buses around. As we were staring at the bus information board, a man approached us…

…what would have happened next in France…
Noticing that we are lost, the guy claims that he knows where our hotel is and proposes to guide us. We walk through dark and narrow lanes, suspicious. 10 men come out of nowhere and fight us to death. Once they have screwed us, our guide and his friends disappear with our bags, phones and wallets.

…what would have happened next in Turkey…
Noticing that we are lost, the guy claims that he knows where our hotel is and proposes to guide us. We walk through dark and narrow lanes, suspicious. We finally get to our hotel, relieved. The man helps us to our room, translating what ever we need, without dropping that friendly smile on his face. Once settled, he asks us whether we are hungry or thirsty and takes us to a restaurant. Last thing we remember: he chooses the meal for us… The next morning, we get up in a bathtub full of ice, with a missing kidney.

You love shitty clichés don’t you?

Here is what happened in China…
Our man, David Sun (that’s his real name) noticed our distrust and insisted on taking the bus with us, telling us about Suzhou, the history and the places we should not miss. He felt so sorry when he understood the first hotel he took us to was not the one we had booked. We walked 15 minutes more; it was almost around midnight when we finally made it to our hotel. He came with us to check the rooms, and was the only one of us three not happy about it. “The shower is not even in the room guys! I’m 35 years old and I earn my own money. Let me pay the difference for you to have a room with a shower in it, please!”. We had to fight 20 minutes to keep is hand away from his wallet. Then, we went to a restaurant all together, discovered the Cai dan (menu) and ordered while David Sun kept talking about Suzhou. I finally told him about the “beautiful girls in Suzhou” thing, thus I got my answer full of humor: “I don’t think Suzhou has the most beautiful girls in China. My wife is from Suzhou, you know what I mean? If you guys are done, I would like to take you to a night club to have beers”.

Indeed, the night club had an entrance fee and the beers were quite expensive, but he kept telling us about China, showing his happiness of meeting foreigners while fighting to keep our hands away from our wallets, even though we were not really fighting back. However, we were not listening to him anymore. Since 3 months we had been in China, and it was the very first time we had stepped into a nightclub that you can actually call “night club”. Sexy women, more women than men, hell of a sound system roaring Sean Paul, Chemical brothers and Mister Oizo, women who like foreigners. We forgot about David Sun and went to hit the dance floor. Two hours later I had the decency to ask David whether he wanted to stay or go: “I would like to now”. Over.

Thus, we went back to our hotel, surprised by our host, cherishing our positive thoughts about China and longing to discover Suzhou. Of course, the same could have happened in France or in Turkey, don’t you be mad. It’s just that I have never seen such friendliness in Turkey, even though Turkish people are very kind and are willing to make other people love their country. Well, in France, I cannot imagine happening even the one tenth of this story.

Wassup doc'?

Yeay!! It's time to take a look to the Hangzhou Museum of Traditional Chinese Medicine!! I will finally learn more about the very well known natural healing methods. As we are full tourist blended humans, we got in the museum by its way out and started our visit with the "take care" shop. At least, they are selling some real stuff in here: plants and parts of animal bodies! And the prices are the funniest thing to see: China, the country where you have a delicious meal for 4 euros - China, the country where you can buy crappy plant roots for 53700 Euros. Okay Hangzhou's citizens are known to be rich, but who would buy these?

Click the picture and take a good look to the price

What can a tourist possibly think about the root healing? Here is my thought path:
  • What the hell??
  • How did people find out about healing properties of roots?
  • Do you take a bite every time your back hurts?
  • Maybe you have to put some in your tea!
  • ..or up in your *ss?!?!
  • How many people died trying to uproot this on high mountains?
  • Shall I tribute these people and take a picture?
  • "Click!!"
  • Sir!! Taking photos is not allowed in here!!
  • .....Don't you worry, I won't blog this picture, I swear.
Roots are so expensive, you'd better not spoil the recipe. Whatever, lets have this museum tour..

The first part counts the historical and cultural aspects of traditional Chinese medicine. How did Chinese people study the nature and discover its power. What was the influence of occidental medicine on Chinese knowledge. How did the trading
with the entire world thing begin. Many interesting information aim to enlighten the tourist's apprehension concerning the mystic Chinese medicine.
The second part of the museum is made of for more concrete items. A dozen rooms exposing jars full of animals, rocks, plants and their legend which more or less look like this:

Rana Temporaria Chensinensis David
Effect: nourishing lung and kidney

Okay who the hell are Lung and Kidney?? can't they eat by themselves? Whatever, legends you cannot understand without an encyclopedia. The section awakes your brains imagination area though. During one hour, I built scenarios of how did Chinese people discover the benefits of these exposed items. It could have gone like "Hey, how should I use this Rhino horn to feel relaxed?" or "Go catch that monkey and we'll figure out what to do with it later! Oh by the way, grab the dead pigeon laying near by the tree over there, and bring it to me on your way back, I have an idea..".


I felt like this is not the kind of museum enjoyable by anyone. Scientist or plant passionates would appreciate the knowledge exposed in here. I enjoyed my own imaginary Chinese traditional medicine.


Grab your bags, jump on the train, move to Suzhou..

First day of the year - Have it in paradise

As I wrote before, there are two islands in the middle of the fantastic Hangzhou West Lake. We wanted to appreciate the first morning of this New Year with a boat trip to the islands and a "natural" walk in this very peaceful after-party atmosphere; fireworks still illuminating the sky though.
I’ll pass the first island we visited as it was 5 meters large and 10 meters wide, with one classic pagoda in the middle, the kind you see everywhere in China.



The second island we stepped on is called Xiao Yingzhou, we are supposed to watch the moon reflecting in the three central pools. In fact, the island is split by a zigzag bridge which lets appear four tiny lakes: "an island in the lake, lakes in the island". What a shame the moon is not around at 10am. Anyway, the scenery is the nicest I have seen since I arrived to China. Bamboos, pools, lake, paths look like a movie set in this foggy morning, I wish there were less people around. Hang around, enjoy the landscape, take pictures for yourself, take pictures with Chinese people amazed by the foreigner presence, practice Taichi, be an R'n'B lover..the pictures say it all.





"Above is heaven, below is Hangzhou and Suzhou"